Paris, City of Pearls opens at L’ÉCOLE School o...

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I don’t know but if I’ll have an opportunity to see Paris, Metropolis of Pearls in individual, however this exhibition is just too spectacular to not share with you! Let’s have a look.

Exhibition Paris, City of Pearls - Photo Dylan Dubois

Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois

There’s an thrilling new jewellery exhibit on the town! Paris, Metropolis of Pearls has opened at L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts (the jewellery faculty supported by Van Cleef & Arpels) and it appears like a can’t miss for any jewellery lovers within the space.

What makes Paris the town of pearls? In line with the exhibition supplies:

From the late 1860s to the late Nineteen Thirties – a interval equivalent to France’s Third Republic – a majority of the pearls fished within the Gulf have been step by step delivered to France, bought in Paris and mounted by the highest jewelers of the Place Vendôme. Account books, telegrams, archive paperwork and interval pictures testify to the dimensions of this commerce.

Routes throughout land, sea after which sky have been opened, main figures emerged in each the Gulf and France, fortunes have been made, and the pearl commerce sparked an unprecedented financial growth. As new commerce routes have been developed, hyperlinks have been solid between individuals and cultures – from the France of the primary third of the twentieth century to the Gulf nations, referred to by the French on the time because the “pearl coast.”

In addition to celebrating nearly a century of shared historical past, this exhibition units out to point out the extent to which each pure pearls and the classy pearls that arrived in France within the Nineteen Twenties impressed not solely Parisian jewelers but in addition artists within the broader sense. All of them appear to have been pushed by the identical ardour for pearls, no matter their technique of creative expression – opera, portray, pictures, poster design, illustration or cinema – to the purpose that the pearl turned one of many symbolic types of the Roaring Twenties.

In search of to penetrate the ultimate mysteries of those biominerals, the exhibition embraces a crossover of historical past, artwork and science. This wide-ranging imaginative and prescient of data is on the coronary heart of L’ÉCOLE’s mission. Based in 2012 with help from Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE invitations the general public to be taught concerning the historical past of knickknack and the abilities concerned, and about gems, via courses, talks, publications and exhibitions, in Paris and elsewhere on the earth.”

The exhibtion flyer and book cover for Paris, City of Pearls

Paris, Metropolis of Pearls presents 100 items of knickknack in addition to paperwork and drawings from prestigious lenders just like the Paris Museum of Ornamental Arts, the Petit Palais – Wonderful Arts Museum of Paris, heritage collections of the Maisons Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Fred, and the distinctive Albion Artwork non-public assortment.

I don’t have images of the entire treasures of the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition, however L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts was type sufficient to ship me some photos to share with you.

Necklace, 1890, natural pearls, diamonds, gold, silver. Paris, City of Pearls exhibition.

This necklace is just about good, in my humble opinion. It’s easy, glamorous, and dramatic in the easiest way. I completely adore the distinction between the sleek, curvy, rectangular pearls with the crisp geometry of the center factor that suspends them.

The form makes me surprise if this magnificence may need been fitted to an optionally available tiara body at one level in historical past, however the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibit doesn’t point out this, so maybe that’s simply wishful pondering on my half.

This pearl necklace was made in 1890 and options pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver.

René Lalique ring, c. 1910, natural pearl, diamonds, enamel, yellow gold. Private collection. Paris, City of Pearls exhibition.

A robust distinction to the frilly items above, this light-as-air pearl dragonfly ring from the Artwork Nouveau period dates to 1910 and is the work of the well-known René Lalique ring. It incorporates a pure pearl, diamonds, and enamel in yellow gold.

Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a personal collector.

Owl pendant, c. 1880, baroque pearl, diamonds, rubies, gold. Private Collection, courtesy of Albion Art Institute.

One of many coolest subgenres of pearl jewellery is when oddly-shaped baroque pearls are reworked into tiny sculptures by the addition of inventive components.

This owl pendant, circa 1880, is a improbable instance of the approach at its best: that’s a pure pearl within the center, reworked from nameless lumpiness by the addition of the owl’s toes and head. I particularly love the rose lower eyes, the main points on the department, and the owl’s options.

This piece incorporates a baroque pearl with diamonds, rubies, and gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls from Albion Artwork Institute.

Van Cleef & Arpels evening bag, 1924, platinum, pearls, onyx, diamonds. Collection Van Cleef & Arpels

I don’t imply to choose favorites, however BONJOUR to this totally spectacular Artwork Deco period pearl bag. Have a look at the tiny onyx particulars alongside the body of the bag, the beautiful hyperlinks of the chain, the woven seed pearls!

Made by Van Cleef & Arpels and presently within the Van Cleef & Arpels Assortment, this beautiful night bag dates to 1924 and is made out of platinum with woven pearls, onyx, and diamonds.

George Barbier, “The Fountain of Shells. Paquin Evening Gown,” Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, 1914.

I discussed above that Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition additionally comprises a variety of drawings and paperwork together with a variety of pleasant jewellery editorials and advertisements.

Titled “The Fountain of Shells. Paquin Night Robe,” and drawn by George Barbier, this web page appeared within the Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, in 1914.

Frédéric Boucheron, necklace and earrings of Edith Amelia Glyn, Lady Wolverton, 1896–1902, natural pearls, diamonds, gold, silver. Albion Art Institute. Paris, City of Pearls exhibit.

This magnificent matched set is a necklace and earrings that belonged to Edith Amelia Glyn, Woman Wolverton (1896–1902).

These treasures have been made by Frédéric Boucheron and have pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by the Albion Artwork Institute.

Germain Bapst and Lucien Falize pendant, c. 1880, grey natural pearls, diamonds, gold. London, Wartski.

This pendant is one other private favourite – I can’t resist the juxtaposition of lumpy pearls with exact geometry.

Made in 1880 by Germain Bapst and Lucien Falize, this pendant options gray pure pearls and diamonds in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Wartski.

Jean-Gabriel Domergue, advertisement for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, La Renaissance de l’art français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.

How about one other editorial?

This one options the artwork of Jean-Gabriel Domergue and is an commercial for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, from La Renaissance de l’artwork français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.

Henri Vever, bodice ornament, 1905. Collection Faerber

From summary to figural, we’re wanting subsequent at this totally enchanting bodice decoration by Henri Vever. If you happen to acknowledge that title, it’s as a result of Mr. Vever was among the finest recognized jewelers in Europe in his day, particularly recognized for his Artwork Nouveau designs. Not exhausting to imagine this stunner, is it?

This bodice decoration was loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Faerber.

Brooch, c. 1925, natural pearls, diamonds, platinum. Private collection, from Paris City of Pearls exhibition

The Artwork Deco period is thought for its spectacular use of pearls and this brooch is about as Deco because it will get. Relationship to 1925, this marvelously dramatic brooch options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.

Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a personal assortment.

Carlo and Arturo Giuliano, necklace, c. 1890, natural pearls, enamel, gold. Paris, City of Pearls exhibit, courtesy of Albion Art Institute.

This distinctive necklace is the work of one other huge title (or pair of names): it’s by Carlo and Arturo Giuliano. If you happen to look intently, you may see their signature delicate enamel work on the mountings suspending the pearl drops.

This piece dates to 1890 and options pure pearls and enamel in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Albion Artwork Institute.

Brooch by Dusausoy, c. 1930, natural pearls, diamonds, platinum. London, Symbolic & Chase. Paris City of Pearls exhibition.

That is one other Artwork Deco brooch, however a barely later one – and the distinction in period exhibits within the 1930’s sensuality that this lengthy and languorous piece exudes. Created by Dusausoy, this piece is circa 1930 and options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.

Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls by Symbolic & Chase, London.

JAR, Sheep’s head brooch, 2006, natural pearls, cabochon star sapphires, aluminum, silver, gold.

Essentially the most fashionable piece from Paris, Metropolis of Pearls that we’re at this time, this charismatic modern design is JAR’s Sheep’s head brooch.

Created in 2006, this brooch options pure pearls and cabochon star sapphires in aluminum with silver and gold.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Gladiator brooch, 1956, yellow gold, emeralds, rubies, turquoise, pearls, baroque pearl, diamonds.

This spectacular Gladiator is one other instance of a baroque pearl became a determine via inventive embellishment. I particularly love the big diamond that represents the face.

It’s a MidCentury piece, created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1956, and options emeralds, rubies, turquoise, pearls, a baroque pearl, and diamonds in yellow gold.

Exhibition Paris, City of Pearls at L'ECOLE - Photo Dylan Dubois

Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois

Paris, Metropolis of Pearls is at L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts till June 1, 2025, so you continue to have time to recover from there! Admission is free, however reservations are required. More info here.

If you happen to (like me) are unlikely to make it over to Paris within the subsequent few months, don’t despair! The exhibit’s catalog has been revealed as a brand new e-book, and you should buy Paris, City of Pearls for your personal jewelry library here.

Need extra pearls? Discover my shoppable Modern Pearl Jewelry wishlist here, my Pearl blog post archive here, and my Pearl Pinterest board here. All images are c/o L’ÉCOLE, College of Jewellery Arts.

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